Caring for New Tack:
Caring for New Tack
By khan.
Leather care isn't rocket science. It's a lot like caring for your own skin. You clean it well, rinse it thoroughly, and then restore moisture lost in the cleaning process.
- ©Practical Horseman. All Rights Reserved.
Leather care isn't rocket science. It's a lot like caring for your own skin. You clean it well, rinse it thoroughly, and then restore moisture lost in the cleaning process.
Do you look at the bloom on some new tack--the whitish haze saddlers call "talc"--and think you have to get it off? No, you don't; it's not bad for the leather. In fact, it's meant to be there.
Tanning, the process that turns cowhide into leather, dries the leather. Then, to restore moisture and pliability, the leather is "curried" with a mixture of tallows and cod-liver oil, leaving a clear residue that turns whitish as it dries; to see it, look closely at the grain of the saddle.
Bloom rubs off so it'll disappear as you ride. To speed the process, just rub with a dry cloth. (Not all new tack arrives at the shop with bloom on it these days. More and more saddles, especially, are rubbed down before they're shipped from the manufacturers.) The usual way to darken new tack and help it break in is by oiling. Stop before you do too much--which probably means before you think you've done enough!
With a little piece of terrycloth or sponge or a small paintbrush, apply a very fine, very light coat of oil--preferably on the underside of flaps and skirts. The leather won't darken as much, but the oil won't ooze out on your clothes. Neatsfoot oil is the traditional choice, but there are other good products for oiling tack, many based on neatsfoot oil, that are a little lighter and thinner, such as Lexol Neatsfoot Formula.
Never "strip" your tack. Anything harsh just ruins the leather. Saddle and bridle leather is made to suit the job it has to do, so don't take out what the currying process put in. Lather tack well with a leather cleaner. Then rinse thoroughly, and condition.Don't oil leather that's soft already (saddle seats, for example), or subject to stretching (such as billets, stirrup leathers, and reins). And, because oil destroys glue's ability to stick, don't oil knee rolls (the foam will separate from the leather, which will wrinkle) or laminated strap goods.
One other pointer: Check the weather forecast before you ride. Water is harder on new tack than on older, conditioned tack, so you don't want to be caught out in the rain.
Bit Gallery:
Types of Bits
By khan.
Most tack stores offer a bewildering array of bits for sale. Knowing what each of them is will help you decide which type of bit is right for your horse.
- ©Practical Horseman. All Rights Reserved.
Too Many Choices
A popular feature of many tack shops is the "Bit Wall". This is usually a rather intimidating array of different types of bit, each with different features designed to work in a slightly different way. Trying to decide which is the right bit for your horse can be confusing, but when you look closely, you'll see that there are only two basic types of bit: the Snaffle Bit and the Curb Bit.
A popular feature of many tack shops is the "Bit Wall". This is usually a rather intimidating array of different types of bit, each with different features designed to work in a slightly different way. Trying to decide which is the right bit for your horse can be confusing, but when you look closely, you'll see that there are only two basic types of bit: the Snaffle Bit and the Curb Bit.
Most people assume that because the snaffle is usually a jointed bit and the curb usually is not, the mouthpiece is what determines whether a particular bit is a snaffle or a curb. However, according to veteran horse trainer, Jessica Jahiel, the difference between snaffles and curbs has nothing to do with the mouthpiece. The difference between the two types of bit is that the snaffle is a non-leverage bit and the curb is aleverage bit.
What Does That Mean?
On a snaffle bit, the rein attaches directly to the mouthpiece. The bit acts with a nutcracker action (provided it is jointed) on the bars of the mouth (the area of gum between the front and back teeth), the corners of the mouth and the tongue. As the rider takes a contact on the rein, the horse feels an equal amount of contact on the bit in his mouth.
On a snaffle bit, the rein attaches directly to the mouthpiece. The bit acts with a nutcracker action (provided it is jointed) on the bars of the mouth (the area of gum between the front and back teeth), the corners of the mouth and the tongue. As the rider takes a contact on the rein, the horse feels an equal amount of contact on the bit in his mouth.
Types of Snaffles:
On a curb bit, the rein attaches to a shank or cheekpiece which adds leverage. When the rider takes a contact on the rein, the horse feels a greater amount of contact, depending on the length of the shank. Following the basic physics of leverage, the longer the shank, the greater the leverage. The curb bit works on the bars of the mouth, as well as under the chin (by way of the curb chain which is attached to the bit) and over the poll.
The gentlest type of snaffle bit is the Eggbutt snaffle. The name comes from the somewhat egg-shaped connection between the mouthpiece and the bit-ring. The mouthpiece of an eggbutt can be made of a variety of materials (as can any bit), including copper and synthetic (either solid or covered). The reason this bit is so gentle is that it doesn't pinch the corners of the mouth.
Another style of snaffle bit is the D-Ring snaffle. The name is self-explanatory in that the ring of the bit is in the shape of a "D".
In the Loose-Ring snaffle, the mouthpiece is attached to a full-round ring, and can slide around on it, allowing the bit to lay in the most natural position, whatever horse it is used on.
Some snaffle bits, such as the Full Cheek Snaffle, have cheek-pieces which prevent the bit from being pulled through the mouth.
Types of Curb Bit
A basic Western Curb Bit has a gently ported mouthpiece and shanks to which the reins attach. As the rider takes a feel of the reins, more leverage is exerted on the horse's mouth and also on the poll (where the bridle goes over the head, behind the ears). By increasing the amount of port on the mouthpiece, pressure is applied to the roof of the mouth also. Since Western horses are ridden on a loose rein, the longer shank allows the rider to utilize the leverage by giving extremely light rein aids and attaining the same result as a rider using a snaffle on a firmer contact.
A basic Western Curb Bit has a gently ported mouthpiece and shanks to which the reins attach. As the rider takes a feel of the reins, more leverage is exerted on the horse's mouth and also on the poll (where the bridle goes over the head, behind the ears). By increasing the amount of port on the mouthpiece, pressure is applied to the roof of the mouth also. Since Western horses are ridden on a loose rein, the longer shank allows the rider to utilize the leverage by giving extremely light rein aids and attaining the same result as a rider using a snaffle on a firmer contact.
In the English Curb Bit the port can also vary in severity. In general the shanks on English bits are shorter than on Western bits - four to five inches on an English bit as opposed to up to eight or nine inches on a Western one. The English Curb bit is often used in a double bridle. In the double bridle, two bits are actually used. One is the curb, called the Weymouth and one is the snaffle, called the Bridoon. Both of these bits are used together to refine the aids in the higher levels of dressage competition.
English Tack:
Seven Saddle-Fit Points that Every Rider Should Know
By khan.
Master Saddle Deborah Witty explains seven saddle-fit points so you can become an informed consumer.
How many times have you heard the phrase "saddle-fitting nightmare?" The frustration of having you and your horse uncomfortable, not performing well or experiencing pain because your saddle does not fit can be quite overwhelming and even debilitating.
Saddle fitting is an integral piece of a large puzzle. These puzzle pieces consist of your support system: your veterinarian, farrier, dentist, body worker, trainer, saddle fitter and most of all, the rider. These professionals can help to assess the behavior and performance of your horse. A horse with a saddle-fitting problem may exhibit or start to display new behaviors while being groomed and saddled, such as pinned ears, biting, kicking and girthiness. We regularly see the horse sore in his back as compensation for other problems. That is why a whole horse evaluation is imperative to evaluate and eliminate each point of concern.
When choosing a saddle fitter look for word-of-mouth referrals, a Society of Master Saddlers (SMS) of England Qualified Saddle Fitter or a fitter who works for a reputable company. Check them out by interviewing them on the phone asking them how they conduct their business, what they charge when evaluating a saddle that is not their own brand and listen to the questions they ask. A fitter's responsibility is to educate you without automatically condemning your saddle and trying to sell you a new one. Find a fitter who will evaluate your saddle objectively and if possible, help you to make your current saddle fit to the best of the ability of that saddle. The fitter should explain your options thoroughly. It may be you need to use shims or a fleece pad as a temporary method of making your horse level in his body or comfortable.
On a routine basis do quick safety checks. This will include a quick tug on the nylon where the billets are connected, checking the stitching that attaches your billets and looking for cracking or tearing on the billets. The same general review of the stitching and leather is important for your stirrup leathers and girth, where you should assess the strength of the elastic as well.I recommend a wool-flocked saddle for your horse's comfort. To keep your saddle in top condition, which means level in the panels, balanced for horse and rider and the wool well-organized, I suggest routine servicing. The more miles you have in the saddle the sooner it may need servicing to keep it at top performance. If you ride 2-3 times a week you may only need to have your saddle serviced once a year. Full-time riders may need servicing every 6-9 months. A horse that is coming back from a layoff, is in a new training program or has had significant weight changes may need servicing after three months. Be a thinking consumer: Routine flocking maintenance may be all that you need, or you may need to have all the wool replaced.
If your saddle takes a fall, with or without your horse, check your tree for soundness by putting the back of the saddle against the front of your hips. Hold the saddle on each side of the pommel and pull toward you listening for the rivets in the head plate to squeak or pop as well as observing the seat leather for slight, even wrinkling. If you notice any unusual noises coming from your saddle you will want to have your saddle evaluated by a Master Saddler.
In the year 2000 I was tested and became a Qualified Saddle Fitter with the Society of Master Saddlers of England. During the process of becoming an SMS fitter we were introduced to the seven points of saddle fitting. This system of check points is without the weight of the rider, minus the girth or pad, with your hand applying firm centered pressure straight down to the pommel or center of the saddle:
1. Gullet Width
Minimum of approximately 2.5 inches or three fingers in the length of the channel of the saddle. Confirm that there is no lateral pressure against the sides of the withers or spine. The desired effect is to have the width of the gullet adequate enough to sit around the spinal process--on the fat and muscle--with no pressure on the spine.
Minimum of approximately 2.5 inches or three fingers in the length of the channel of the saddle. Confirm that there is no lateral pressure against the sides of the withers or spine. The desired effect is to have the width of the gullet adequate enough to sit around the spinal process--on the fat and muscle--with no pressure on the spine.
2. Adequate Clearance through the Pommel
Initially unloaded/ungirthed with pressure down on the middle of the pommel, the saddle will sit with a clearance of approximately 2 1/4 inches or three or more fingers stacked vertically between the top of the withers and the bottom of the pommel (new saddles could be more). Too close to the withers means the saddle is wide, and too much clearance (with a moderate wither) can indicate that the saddle is too narrow--both scenarios can create discomfort and an imbalance in the saddle.
Initially unloaded/ungirthed with pressure down on the middle of the pommel, the saddle will sit with a clearance of approximately 2 1/4 inches or three or more fingers stacked vertically between the top of the withers and the bottom of the pommel (new saddles could be more). Too close to the withers means the saddle is wide, and too much clearance (with a moderate wither) can indicate that the saddle is too narrow--both scenarios can create discomfort and an imbalance in the saddle.
Horse Clothing:
Horse Blanket Know-How
By khan.
Demystify the blanket-buying process with our tested tips and guide to horse blanket lingo.
There's no escaping the fact that money is tight for most of us. Winter has its own set of financial demands on the average budget. Then, there are the price increases in hay, grain, vet care, farrier visits--all things arguably more important to general equine welfare than keeping them in clothing.
But don't get in a rush to nix quality blankets and other horsewear from your budget--especially if you show, fit or sell horses; live in a harsh climate; or care for a geriatric or special-needs equine. Blankets provide warmth, protection from the elements, armor from a mouthy barnmate, and polish to a fantastic show coat. A basic blanket can protect an ill horse from drafts, or keep mud from bringing your pre-ride routine to a crawl.
The decision to buy a blanket is relatively easy, but shopping for and selecting the best blanket for your horse's needs can be a different story. At risk is your budget, as buying the wrong blanket can be an expensive mistake. Not only do retailers offer a potentially overwhelming number of choices, the horsewear trade employs words that, unless decoded, may make your head spin.
Our blanket-buyer's guide will help you sort things out.
Feature Factors
As you read in-store product literature or catalog copy, you'll encounter terms for various blanket features. Some features may be just right for your particular horse, while others may not. Here's what some of these common terms mean:
As you read in-store product literature or catalog copy, you'll encounter terms for various blanket features. Some features may be just right for your particular horse, while others may not. Here's what some of these common terms mean:
European cut. Suits slim, long-bodied horses, such as modern hunters. Smaller neck openings and straight in profile from withers to tail than standard cut. Measured in 3-inch increments.
Closed front. Continuous fabric across the horse's chest, with no adjustable closures. Less to wear, tear, or break, but you sacrifice the greatest point of adjustability.Standard cut. Designed for wider, stock-type body profiles. Often shaped for curvy, muscular shoulders and hips. Measured in 2-inch increments.
Open front. Chest-front section opens and closes via buckles or snaps. Snaps are more convenient than buckles, and both accommodate growing horses. Tip: Open-front blankets with a single closure are for supervised wear only, such as when you're walking a horse to cool him out. If a horse rips out the single closure system while turned out or left in a stall, there's nothing else to hold the blanket in place.
Shoulder darts. Sewn-in construction that affords shoulder movement and eases shoulder rubs. Tip: Rubs will only be eliminated if the dart is above the point of shoulder.
Drop. Standard blankets drop a couple inches below the belly. Extra-long drops add inches of coverage, which may be desirable if you want more coverage of the forearms and lower hindquarters.
- Blankets can offer your horse warmth and protection during cold weather, but uncovering which one fits your horse
Shaped withers. Construction style, either cut-back or with added fabric shaping, meant to provide pressure relief over the top of prominent withers.
Back seam. Results when a blanket is seamed down the middle of the back. Tip: Avoid this if you're buying a turnout blanket that will be worn outdoors. Taped seams help prevent leaks, but if a blanket is punctured by a thread stitch, there's a greater potential for leakage, particularly as the blanket ages.
Belly band. Under-belly closure system that uses a wide band of fabric. Belly-band styles are popular in cold climates. The added fabric serves as a blanket-weight booster. By trapping heat lost through the belly, a blanket's performance will increase significantly. Caveat: If your horse tends to rip blankets with his teeth, he may be able to make short work of reaching back and tearing a belly-band closure apart.
Tail cover. Fabric that covers the top several inches of the horse's tail. When turned out, horses will instinctively turn their tails to a strong wind or driving rain. A tail cover prevents drafts from making their way under the blanket as winds blow the fabric.
Sewn-in extra fabric that covers the neck. Eliminates the need for a separate neck cover, while also preventing any gap between the garments.Caveat: Hoisting a blanket with a neck cover over your horse requires some muscle on your part--it's like slipcovering a sofa (one that's much higher than furniture, and could try to move as well). Useful for limited seasons. When it's too hot for a neck cover, the entire blanket will end up in storage.
How to: Attach the Breastcollar and Back Cinch:
How to: Attach the Breastcollar and Back Cinch
By asad khan.
Attach and adjust the breastcollar and back cinch the right way with this video demonstration from the Certified Horsemanship Association.
- A well-fitting breastcollar safely secures your saddle and doesn’t create rub marks on your horse, even on long rides. Photo by Cappy Jackson
If you trail ride, consider adding a breastcollar and back cinch to secure your saddle. Even if your saddle fits your horse well, hills and extreme terrain can cause saddle slippage, which creates discomfort for your horse at best and a dangerous situation at worst.
Watch the video for important breastcollar and back-cinch attachment and fitting tips from the Certified Horsemanship Association, as explained by Brent Morgan, CHA president.
Here are a few highlights:
- Order of attachment: First, secure the front cinch, as you’ll be attaching the breastcollar and back cinch to its rings. Then fasten the back cinch to the front cinch with the connecting strap. Finally, attach the breastcollar to the front cinch and to your saddle’s front D-rings. When you untack, you’ll do this in reverse; you’ll undo the breastcollar, then the back cinch, then the front cinch.
- Breastcollar attachment: Leave the right shoulder strap attached to the saddle, for efficiency. After you saddle up and secure the front cinch, attach the breastcollar’s left shoulder strap, then the center strap. As you do, don’t duck under your horse’s neck; keep your head well away from your horse’s hooves.
- Breastcollar fit: Place your fist under the point where the breastcollar three straps come together at the center of your horse’s chest. If you’re unable to fit your entire fist underneath the leather, loosen the adjustment.Finally, make sure the breastcollar is adjusted so that the right and left sides are even.Next, check the fit of the left and right shoulder pieces. They should fit closely, but not tightly. Your horse needs freedom of shoulder movement, especially as he negotiates hills. You also don’t want the leather to rub and abrade your horse’s hair and skin.
- Back-cinch attachment: Buckle the back cinch, then simply snap its connecting strap to the front cinch. Again, keep your head up, away from your horse’s hooves.
- Back-cinch fit: Check fit by slipping two fingers under the cinch at the apex of your horse’s belly. If it’s too tight, it could turn into a bucking strap. If it’s too loose, your horse could catch his hoof in it. Also, branches could get caught between the cinch and your horse’s belly, creating discomfort and potentially causing a wreck, should your horse spook.
And of course, if the back cinch is too loose, it won’t optimally secure your saddle.
Horse Saddle Pad: A Cushion of Comfort to Prevent Back Soreness in Horses:
Horse Saddle Pad: A Cushion of Comfort to Prevent Back Soreness in Horses
By khan.
Learn how to determine the best saddle pad to keep your horse comfortable on the trail and to help prevent back soreness.
Your horse doesn’t care whether his saddle pad is Stone Age or Space Age, or whether it costs $30 or $300. He just wants to be comfortable and to have a horse saddle pad that prevents back soreness in horses. Here, we give you six ways to enhance saddle-pad comfort.
1. Use one saddle pad. It’s best to use one pad, and the thinnest pad possible. Stacked pads will first lift the saddle too high. Then, as the pads compress, they’ll create painful pressure points on your horse’s back by the end of the ride. On your ride, the pads will likely slip and slide, compromising stability and painfully rubbing against your horse’s skin. Using one saddle pad is important to prevent back soreness in horses.
2. Find the right size. Your pad needs to be the right size, shape, and thickness. A pad that’s too short or too long, too thick or too thin, or shaped to lie along a straight fence rail rather than a horse’s back will not prevent back soreness in horses. If your horse has distinct withers, a pad that’s cut straight along the spine will create painful wither pressure. Again, it is important that the saddle is the right size otherwise it will result in a sore back.4. Watch saddle fit. Be careful when attempting to use a pad to improve saddle fit. If your saddle is too narrow, no pad will help — you need a different saddle. The same is true if your saddle is too long or too wide for your horse, if the angle of the bars(the part of the Western tree that lie along either side of your horse’s spine) or the points (the ends of the pommel arch at the front of an English tree) don’t match your horse’s shoulder angles, or if your saddle’s underside doesn’t match your horse’s back profile.3. Match the contours. A good-fitting, comfortable pad will have contours that correspond to the contours of your horse’s back and your saddle’s underside so it won’t put pressure on your horse’s withers or spine. It’ll extend past the edge of the saddle, all the way around — but, like a good saddle, it won’t extend past your horse’s last rib. If it’s too long, it’ll likely rub and press against your horse’s hips. And, if it’s a heavy or stiff saddle pad, your horse’s hind legs will push pad and saddle forward.
If your saddle is too wide for your horse, pads can help improve the fit temporarily. This can be helpful if you’re building up an unfit horse that will have a wider back in a few months, when he muscles up. If your horse is unevenly developed, a customizable pad with shims or a comfort system may help you even out the saddle fit and make your horse more comfortable.
5. Alleviate pressure. When you place your saddle on the pad, always pull the front of the pad straight up, away from your horse’s withers and into the front of the saddle. If the pad lies flat, saddle pressure will cause rubbing and will interfere with your horse’s movement.
6. Adjust to change. Since your horse’s back is always changing, your saddle pad may need to change too. Even if your saddle fits well, you may need several different types and thicknesses of pads at different times of year — for instance, when your horse is soft and fat after a winter without work, when he’s losing fat and beginning spring workouts, and when he’s building up bigger, stronger muscles after a few months of work.
Horse Tack Check with Lynn Palm:
By khan.
Learn how to prevent common horse problems by performing a point-by-point tack check including evaluating saddle fit with world champion trainer Lynn Palm.
Join world-champion trainer Lynn Palm as she guides you through a tack check to optimize the safety and comfort of both you and your horse. Lynn Palm will teach you how to check your saddle, saddle pad, bridle, and bit to prevent horse problems in the future.
Lynn Palm’s equine partners are Rugged Painted Lark, a 9-year-old Paint stallion (Western tack) and Lark’s Painted Dinero, a 5-year-old Paint stallion (English tack).
Checkpoint #1: Saddle
Saddle fit/placement. Be sure your saddle fits your horse. If the tree is too narrow, the saddle can slip back, putting painful pressure on your horse’s lower back and loins which can cause serious horse problems later on. A host of physical problems can be caused by an improperly fitting saddle. Consult with a saddle-fit expert if you have any doubts a particular saddle is a good fit for your horse. An improper saddle fit will cause horse problems that could later result in more serious issues.
Saddle fit/placement. Be sure your saddle fits your horse. If the tree is too narrow, the saddle can slip back, putting painful pressure on your horse’s lower back and loins which can cause serious horse problems later on. A host of physical problems can be caused by an improperly fitting saddle. Consult with a saddle-fit expert if you have any doubts a particular saddle is a good fit for your horse. An improper saddle fit will cause horse problems that could later result in more serious issues.
Surprisingly, many riders unknowingly place their saddle too far forward on their horses’ backs. When this happens, your horse’sscapula (shoulder blade) actually hits the saddle tree as he strides out. To avoid pain, he compromises his stride; this unnatural, altered stride causes him to land harder than usual, putting more pressure on his feet, joints, and muscles.
Cinch/girth. For schooling, Palm suggests using a neoprene or leather cinch or girth, which is easy to clean and disinfect — an important point if you use your tack interchangeably on different horses. “I really like a neoprene girth, but you have to be cautious, because you can get one overly tight,” she says. “On long rides, particularly when it’s hot, I always use a leather girth. I don’t like to have rubber against my horse’s skin, especially in tender places, such as the girth area or on the back. Neoprene can irritate the skin, because it doesn’t breathe.”Also, the under-panels of a too-far-forward saddle don’t come in contact with your horse’s back. Instead, your saddle bridges, meaning that it touches only his withers and lower back. This creates undue pressure on these areas, rather than distributing your weight uniformly.
If you ride with a back cinch or girth, you shouldn’t be able to see a noticeable gap of daylight between the cinch/girth and your horse’s belly. A loose back cinch is asking for an accident to happen.
When tacking up, tighten the cinch or girth at least twice. After the first time, leave the stirrup hooked on a Western saddle horn, or English irons run up the leather. This will remind you to tighten the cinch or girth once more before mounting.
Safety check. Before every ride, turn your saddle upside down and give it a quick visual inspection. Pay close attention to places where hardware connects with leather, looking for cracks or signs of wear. Inspect the billets and buckles on an English saddle and the latigo on a Western saddle. If you find any cracks in a leather latigo, replace it immediately. A nylon latigo will last longer than leather, but be careful you don’t overtighten it when cinching up.
Checkpoint #2: Saddle Pad
Pad type. A wool saddle pad is ideal, as it conforms to your horse’s back, wicks away sweat, and is long-wearing. Look for a wool pad that’s one inch thick. Avoid a synthetic-fleece pad, which lacks the moisture-wicking properties of wool.
Pad type. A wool saddle pad is ideal, as it conforms to your horse’s back, wicks away sweat, and is long-wearing. Look for a wool pad that’s one inch thick. Avoid a synthetic-fleece pad, which lacks the moisture-wicking properties of wool.
A single Navajo-type blanket isn’t typically thick enough for your horse’s comfort; add another pad or blanket underneath. Square cotton blankets and half pads are popular among English riders. Palm personally likes Professional’s Choice SMx Air-Ride pads, in both Western and all-around styles. These pads conform both to your saddle and your horse’s back.
Don’t make the mistake of thinking “the thicker the better,” as too many pads will cause a barrel effect, which causes the saddle to shift; this, in turn, can sore your horse’s back. You can’t make a saddle fit better by adding pads. If a saddle doesn’t fit properly, no pad can correct the problem. Be sure your pad is large enough for your saddle. There should be a minimum of one inch of pad showing around all edges of the saddle.
Tack-up tip. Whenever you tack up, pull the front of your pad or blanket up to the top of the cantle. This creates a “tunnel” allowing air to enter and reach your horse’s back, making him cooler and more comfortable during the ride. This is also a good time to make sure no mane hairs are trapped under the pad and pulled tight.
Pad cleaning. Clean your saddle pad/s regularly; a buildup of hair and dirt on the pad can irritate your horse’s back. Also, use a clean pad if you switch horses; shared equipment can spread skin problems from horse to horse. Toss cotton blankets and pads in the wash, but wool requires hand washing with cold water, a mild soap such as Ivory, and a hard bristled brush. After washing, air-dry blankets and pads in the sun.
Checkpoint #3: Bridle
Bridle type. Either leather or nylon is acceptable for schooling. Secure the headstall with a browband and throatlatch. When riding English and using a snaffle, Palm adds a cavesson (noseband) to keep her horse from opening his mouth and to provide more control. Because a snaffle works off the sides of the mouth, if the horse can open his mouth, he can evade the pressure of the bit.
Bridle type. Either leather or nylon is acceptable for schooling. Secure the headstall with a browband and throatlatch. When riding English and using a snaffle, Palm adds a cavesson (noseband) to keep her horse from opening his mouth and to provide more control. Because a snaffle works off the sides of the mouth, if the horse can open his mouth, he can evade the pressure of the bit.
If you trail ride, consider a combination halter/bridle. Or, put a well-fitting nylon halter on underneath your horse’s headstall. Make sure the halter is fitted high enough (one inch under each cheekbone) to prevent pinching from the bit. Take along a stout lead rope so you can safely tie your horse when you stop along the trail.
Reins. Split reins or a single rein are a matter of personal preference. Palm chooses to ride with 5/8-inch wide split-leather reins made of bridle leather, because they’re a good fit for women’s hands.
Round reins are Palm’s second choice, but she prefers leather over nylon, because nylon is slick and can be slippery, while leather offers better grip and contact. In rainy weather, however, leather can become slippery, so choose nylon instead. If you ride English, you’ll find laced or braided reins offer a good grip.
If you ride with a single rein, note that the reins should be long enough that when you pick them up, there’s a good 6 to 12 inches of bite, the part of the rein that hangs down. This extra amount of rein gives you more options for rein adjustment and allows you to maintain a loose rein or light contact when you don’t need greater control.
Hardware. Palm cautions against using snaps instead of buckles or leather lacing to attach the reins to the bit. “Snaps are always jiggling and can be annoying to a sensitive or nervous horse, because it stimulates them even more,” she notes. “If you use snaps, make sure the snap weight isn’t heavier than the rein; otherwise it’ll move constantly and send vibrations to the bit, which some horses find very annoying. These vibrations also interfere with clear rein cues. If you have snaps on the reins and your horse mouths the bit a lot, or is nervous, try replacing those snaps with a leather attachment, and you might notice a big improvement.”
Checkpoint #4: Bit
Bit type. “You should ride in as less severe a bit as you need to have control of your horse,” Palm notes. “People tend to have more bit then they need. A more severe bit enhances sensitivity and response. Instead of getting more control, you can actually have less.”
Bit type. “You should ride in as less severe a bit as you need to have control of your horse,” Palm notes. “People tend to have more bit then they need. A more severe bit enhances sensitivity and response. Instead of getting more control, you can actually have less.”
Any bit can be abusive depending on the rider. Even a snaffle bit — which sports a broken mouthpiece and lacks shanks for leverage — can be severe in the wrong hands.
Bit fit. Make sure the bit you are using fits and is adjusted properly in your horse’s mouth. It shouldn’t sit too low. There should be one wrinkle in the corners of his mouth, just above the bit.
If your horse is comfortable with the bit, his mouth will be relaxed, as will his head-and-neck carriage. His eye will be soft, and his neck muscles won’t be tense. Is his mouth always moving, is his neck tense, or does he frequently toss his head? Any or all of these can be signs the bit isn’t right for him, isn’t fitted properly, or you’re being too heavy-handed.
Curb strap/chain. If your bit requires a curb strap or chain, check the adjustment, as this directly relates to how well your bit will function. For example, with a curb bit a properly fitted curb strap allows the bit to have the right leverage to work on the bars of the horse’s mouth. If the curb strap is too tight, there is always tension on the bit. If the strap is too loose, the bit loses leverage.
You should be able to slip two fingers under the chain or strap and slide them along your horse’s chin. Palm prefers a plain leather curb strap with buckles on both sides for ease of adjustment.
Breastcollar Tip
Do you ride with a breastcollar? Look for a well-made, leather breastcollar, and properly adjust it to fit your horse. It should fit snugly — not tight and never loose. It should rest above your horse’s point of the shoulder (as shown). If it sits too low over the point of the shoulder, it’ll restrict movement and cause him pain. The metal center ring in front should rest right at the base of his neck; if it’s any lower, it’s sitting too low.
Do you ride with a breastcollar? Look for a well-made, leather breastcollar, and properly adjust it to fit your horse. It should fit snugly — not tight and never loose. It should rest above your horse’s point of the shoulder (as shown). If it sits too low over the point of the shoulder, it’ll restrict movement and cause him pain. The metal center ring in front should rest right at the base of his neck; if it’s any lower, it’s sitting too low.
Cynthia McFarland is a full-time freelance writer who writes regularly for national horse publications and is the author of eight books. Horse-crazy since childhood, she owns a small farm in north central Florida. She enjoys trail riding on her Paint Horse gelding, Ben.
Lynn Palm has shown more than 34 Quarter Horse world and reserve champions, competing in both English and Western disciplines. She’s won a record four AQHA Superhorse titles and was the first rider to win the prestigious Superhorse title twice on the same horse, Rugged Lark. In 2000, Palm was named Horsewoman of the Year by the Women’s Sports Foundation and the AQHA. In 2003, Equine Affaire gave her its Exceptional Equestrian Educator award.